普洱茶在台灣之興起

學年度:92
學期:2
校院:東吳大學
系所:社會學系碩士班
論文名稱(中):普洱茶在台灣之興起
論文名稱(英):The Image of Modern Man as a Möbius Strip of Subject
學位類別:碩士
語文別:chi
學號:89315012
頁數:140
研究生姓名(中):郭俊明
研究生姓名(英):Ching-ming Kou
指導教授姓名(中):劉維公
指導教授姓名(英):Liou, Wei-Gong
關鍵字(中):普洱茶、 臭曝茶、 飲茶、 文化資本、 經濟資本、 品味
關鍵字(英):Puerh tea、 tea-drinking、 cultrual capital、 economic capital、 taste


中文提要:

  雲南所產的普洱茶至晚在1950年代就經由香港開始在台灣社會中緩慢流傳,因為它不符合台灣飲茶空間的主流品味標準,而被貶抑為「臭曝茶」。到了1980年代初期,一群高度文化資本的持有者在原有的飲茶空間中發動了一場「新品味的建構行動」。歷經了十餘年的努力,在1990年代中期,成功地在台灣的飲茶空間中建立起普洱茶的新品味標準與普洱茶飲茶次場域。


  在1970年代中期為了擴大內銷市場,政府茶業部門建立起「優良茶比賽暨展售會」的制度,成功地為消費市場生產出品味的徽章,帶動了茶葉的內銷市場。而在茶比賽制度的帶動下,以優良茶比賽評審標準──茶葉香氣與外觀──為品味標準的「比賽茶品味」成為飲茶空間的主流品味標準。而也由於比賽茶品味的發展,高度追求茶葉香氣與外觀,導致了「傷胃論述」的形成。


  擁有高度文化資本的普洱茶品味建構者,巧妙地利用「台灣茶傷胃論述」,首先賦予普洱茶具有「藥性」,乃至於「健康」的符號。並且更進一步在1990年代初期模仿法國葡萄酒商的經營模式,虛構了「傳統雲南普洱茶是祖父做,孫子賣的事業」、「做新茶,賣老茶」等故事,為陳年普洱茶創造論述基礎;且在「健康」的邏輯之下,排除了源自香港的濕倉茶品味,而建構以生茶製成、乾倉環境中保存的陳年普洱茶為好普洱茶的品味標準。在1990年代中期,巧妙地結合了健康論述與「生茶乾倉陳年普洱茶」品味論述的「茶氣論述」被創造出來之後,這一「生茶乾倉陳年普洱茶」的品味標準,迅速成為台灣社會中普洱茶的主流品味標準。


  隨著新品味標準的成功確立,品味的建構者成為評判標準的源頭與建構者。透過「普洱茶茶譜」的建構,一方面為消費者生產出表彰品味的徽章;同時,透過「茶譜」的建構,行動者得以將自身的文化資本成功地轉化為經濟資本。

英文提要:

  Puerh tea, produced in Yunan, China and imported from Hong-Kong, spread out slowly in Taiwan Society no later than 1950s. Not conforming to the main standards of tea-drinking taste at that time, it was censured and named ‘Chao-Pu tea’ which means moldy tea. In the early 1980s, some people, who held high cultural capital, started ‘a new taste-constructing action’ in Taiwan tea-drinking space. After more than ten years hard working, they successfully constructed the new taste standards of Puerh tea and built a sub-field of Pureh tea-drinking in the tea-drinking space in the mid- 1990s.


  In the mid-1970s, in order to expand the domestic tea market, the government established the institution of ‘tea competition and trade fair’, which successfully produced the taste emblems for consumers and stimulated the domestic tea market. Under the affect of the institution of ‘tea competition and trade fair’, the standards of grading in the tea competition become the standards of judgment of ‘tea-competition- taste’ and, in the same, the main standards of judgment of taste in the tea-drinking space. But extremely conforming to the standards caused the development of the discourse of ‘Taiwan tea hurting stomach’.


  The Puerh tea-taste creators who held high cultural capital, spread the discourse of ‘Taiwan tea hurting stomach’ cleverly, and announced Puerh tea with medical utility, then giving Puerh tea ‘healthy sign’. Furthermore, according to the business mode of Fraench wine, some of the creators made up the story that the traditional business mode of Puerh tea was ‘grandfather producing the tea for grandson selling’. This story built the foundation of old Puerh tea taste. On the other side, under the logic of ‘health’, new taste creators rejected the ‘shih-cang tea’ taste from Hong-Kong, and instead constructed the new taste that required the Puerh tea made from unfermented raw green tea and stored in dry place. In the mid-1990, the new taste become the main taste of Puerh tea drinking, after the ‘cha-ci’ discourse, which combined the healthy discourse and the new taste discourse of old Puerh tea made from unfermented raw green tea and stored in dry place, created.


  Along with the new taste successfully constructed, the new taste creators had been the sources of the judgment standards. By constructing the order system of Puerh tea according to the new taste standards, they produced the emblems which present taste, and, at the same time, transformed their cultural capital to economic capital smoothly.